Photos from Losar and More

I've finished uploading all my photos from Bodh Gaya, Sarnath, and Varanasi. (Click to see!) I particularly wanted to share a couple of the Losar photos and Varanasi photos here on my blog before I move on to writing about Dharamsala. (By the way, I saw the Dalai Lama today, but that's another story) These first few photos are from Losar, the Tibetan New Year, where I saw the 17th Karmapa; the rest are Varanasi.

I've been in India for about six weeks now, though it seems like longer. I've had quite an adventure.

Bodh Gaya and Sarnath were both inspiring destinations for my pilgrimage, with the power of living devotion that I witnessed. With every monk or nun that I see, with every color of robe, and with the ordinary Buddhists and meditators, I feel an instant kinship. I feel a sense of being fellow transcendental explorers, not limited by the labels of our various cultures, traditions, or upbringings.

Varanasi brought me closer to Hinduism and the Indian culture which has been a challenge at times. Sarnath is a quiet and spread out village on the outskirts of Varanasi. As my photo albums might suggest, it was slightly less photogenic than the historic big city itself.

I enjoyed the colors and sights in Varanasi and the lack of auto traffic on the steps and alleyways that line the sacred Ganges river. But, two days was enough for me.

The Dharma Gathering was fun, and the community a great support. Perhaps I make friends too easily, as it's taking some discipline to stay with the solitude and the inward journey (which has been even more colorful and full of treasures than the traveling itself.)

I think the last six months of 2009 spoiled me, while I sat in the pristine hills of California. No matter where you go, it's hard to beat the dark red richness of the manzanita on a wet winter day. I still can't believe whatever winds of fate have sent me to India! What a place to be.


I'm taking lots of time now in Mcleod Ganj for quiet contemplation, and I plan to do a short self-retreat of a few days. Later on in March, I'll be heading back into retreat again for forty days (oh yes, I'm meditation crazy!) at Sattal ashram which is about 18 hours bus ride from here.

Anyway, enjoy the photos, and feel free to comment either on my blog here or on my picassa albums.

Travel Update: Sleeping Safely In Sarnath

I'm alive!!! It's a happy day here on the Tibetan New Year in Sarnath (the birthplace of Buddhism.)

I got sick again with a short fever, followed by a painful stomach bug and then a wicked cough. I went to the doctor and got 4 kinds of medicine. Wow. And, the entire visit to the doctor (with medicine) cost 135 rupees or about US$3. I spent two whole days in bed, mostly sleeping.

Today I'm feeling great, with a little cough still. And, I found out that while I was sleeping, a bomb went off in Pune, India! Terror alerts went into effect in parts of India after the attack. Don't worry, I'm no where near any of it, and unless the Chinese decide to attack the Tibetan 17th Karmapa, I don't foresee any terrorist attacks in sleepy little Sarnath any time soon. It's nice knowing that Buddhism seems to do a great job keeping it's hands clean of holy wars.

The attack, however, was at a favorite German Bakery of many backpacking budget travelers. I'm told they served great cappuccinos (which are hard to find in India). So, I guess there is some cause for concern. But still, I think I'd have a greater chance of getting hit by a speeding bus in the insane road traffic here than being victim of a terrorist attack.

Feeling the great joy of being alive this morning, I was fortunate enough to go see the 17th Karmapa! They had a wonderful little new year's celebration on the lawn to entertain him (or bore him, as was sometimes the case.) I got some incredible photos and had such a fun time enjoying the celebration. It felt incredibly intimate with probably about 100 people there at most, especially considering that this guy is a sort of celebrity in Tibetan Buddhism. Everyone was smiling.

The internet in Sarnath is very slow, and there are only a few computers that seem to be quite busy with travelers, so unfortunately I won't have any photo uploads for a while.

Also, I wrote a bunch in my journal on the bus ride from Bodh Gaya, so I've got a backlog of Blog material to type up. Blogging will just be a wonderful practice in patience.

My plans have changed again (which makes me wonder why I use the word "plans" anyway?) Actually, there is no plan right now. But, I was planning to continue my Buddhist pilgrimage to Kushinigar (where the Buddha died) and then to Lumbini, Nepal (where the Buddha was born.) These four sites in all make up the traditional Buddhist pilgrimage. Then, I was going to do some more meditation in Lumbini at a center there called Panditarama-Lumbini.

Two things have made me reconsider. One, my health. Two, there is a new regulation that just went into effect with Indian visas. Now, the law states that a person must leave India for at least 2 months before returning. Since there were more things that I wanted to do in India, I might just stay here for a few months before heading into Nepal, or wherever the next destination may be.

Three (ok, three things made me reconsider)... I found out about a retreat that I might be interested in for more meditation. It's a long retreat in the foothills of the Himilayas. Plus, visiting the Himilayas has been a dream of mine for a long long long time.

I'm also considering taking a break at a yoga ashram just to take care of my health. But, still meditation is my first priority, and trekking and yoga will fit in if the "plans" make it fit.

Anyway, that's my update for now. Mostly, I wanted to let you all know that I'm safe and sound, and I'll be in Sarnath for at least 5 more days or so.

Happy Losar! Happy Tibetan New Year!
Oh, woops, I just looked online and saw this article: "Dalai Lama urges Tibetans not to celebrate New Year" apparently in solidarity with those in Tibet who won't be celebrating.
So... send your blessings, instead, to all the people around the world who don't have the luxury of celebrating holidays (there are a lot!)

Travel Update: The Deathless Drum

On the way not far from Gayâ the Buddha was met by Upaka, an ascetic who, struck by the serene appearance of the Master, inquired: "Who is your teacher? Whose teaching do you profess?"

The Buddha replied: "I have no teacher, one like me does not exist in all the world, for I am the Peerless Teacher, the Arahat. I alone am Supremely Enlightened. Quenching all defilements, Nibbâna’s calm have I attained. I go to the city of Kâsi (Benares) to set in motion the Wheel of Dhamma. In a world where blindness reigns, I shall beat the Deathless Drum."

"Friend, you then claim you are a universal victor," said Upaka. The Buddha replied: "Those who have attained the cessation of defilements, they are, indeed, victors like me. All evil have I vanquished. Hence I am a victor."

Upaka shook his head, remarking sarcastically, "It may be so, friend," and took a bypath. The Buddha continued his journey, and in gradual stages reached the Deer Park at Isipatana.

Tomorrow morning at 10:00am, I will be heading to Kasi to beat the Deathless Drum! I had planned to spend a few more days in Bodh Gaya, but destiny had other plans. A number of people on the retreat organized a private bus from Bodh Gaya to Sarnath - the modern day home of "Deer Park," where the Buddha gave his first official sermon. Sarnath is the second great stop on any Buddhist pilgrimage.

The same people who put together the Bodh Gaya retreat are hosting a Dharma Gathering in Sarnath for the next ten days, and they will also be making arrangements with the Thai monastery there for some accommodations. So, everything aligned perfectly for me to go with the flow and move on.

I'll be moving back into monastic living conditions, but won't be living in strict silence. I'll also have some time to see the town. I plan to spend about 9 or 10 days in Sarnath, just relaxing a little, meditating and taking my sweet time with life.

So, from Bodh Gaya, I'm signing off.