(Despite a pretty cool name, the Vishnu Cyber Cafe does not want me to upload any photos or use their usb port at all. So, no photo sharing yet.) (Edit: Photos added now - enjoy)
After a very long and exciting journey, I've arrived in Bodh Gaya, India!
My plane landed in Kolkata around sunset. The weather was warm and misty. I changed some money and got in a taxi to the train station. Within a few minutes, I was racing down the streets of Kolkata in traffic insanity. My first glimpse of India - dark with a hazy, dusty, polluted mist that glowed in the lights of busy street stalls and headlights of oncoming traffic. And, I mean on-coming! Not an inch of cement was going unused with feet, bikes, animals, rickshaws, cars, buses, and more.
I didn't take any photos. I just wanted to bask in the experience. I was going to write: "let the experience soak in." But, then I thought: "actually I don't want anything to soak in to me here - it's kinda dirty!" Ok, more than kinda. Kolkata (and most of India that I've seen so far) is very dirty. I went back and looked at the guide book and noticed how skillful they were at editing out the litter, pollution, and filth ridden animals. Kudos to the photographers. I'm hoping my photos can be a bit more true to life.
I arrived at the Kolkata Howrah train station about four hours early for my train. I didn't feel hungry or tired, but I was a little delirious. I was tempted to do some sightseeing in Kolkata before departing, but given the insanity of the streets, my delirium, and the overwhelming experience of my first Indian train station, I had enough to keep me busy.
The train depot looked a bit like how I imagine a post-disaster emergency housing center to look. People were jammed in the large ornate building taking up spots on the floor where they would lie down, take naps, enjoy a little train station picnic, or just generally huddle together. There were some clumps that carried with them an obvious religious bond as indicated by their specific uniform (headwear, or robe, etc.)
There was a main entrance from the subway transfer that appeared to be a constant moment-to-moment flow of people flooding in. I attempted to walk against the flow just to see where they were coming from, all with a big smile on my face.
Every window that looked like official business (ticketing, schedules, etc) was swarmed with a large crowd (no line) of people pushing toward the window. I found a sign that said my train was on time, and was content to simply wait it out and assume my e-ticket was going to work. I did enjoy the small signs that say "please queue." It was only written in English, so I had to wonder what the point was.
After a little while of just wandering aimlessly through the station, quite amused by the non-ordinariness of my situation, I eventually met my first friends. In the sea of thousands, I probably saw less than a dozen westerners during the entire four hours. But, as I retreated to a little stairwell for a cozy place to sit, I met with a couple of students from a university in Delhi. One was Indian (though he spoke perfect English) and the other was French. They seemed quite pleased to come talk with me, and they'd taken bets on where I was from. The French guy guessed Holland, and the Indian guy guessed Germany. When, I revealed that I was from the US, they were surprised, and the Indian guy was really hoping I was from Texas. He liked Texas.
It was nice to have a little conversation at this point. They set my mind at ease, and confirmed that my train was indeed on time and on it's way. They're train, however had been delayed twice for a total of 14 hours. They had been taking it in stride and made the best of their extra time in Kolkata.
When I finally jumped on the train, I found a quaint little bunk bed waiting for me. It was quite modest, and separated by curtains from a number of Indians who would occasionally yell out from their curtains throughout the night. I imagine they were saying things like: "Are we there yet? How much longer? Where are we?" or maybe it was, "I've got to pee." "Why are you telling me that?"The train was about an hour late getting to Gaya, but that gave me some time to make another friend, an older army man from India. His English wasn't great, but we were able to chat enough so that he could give me some fatherly advice about being careful in India.
I finally pulled my camera out and took some photos of him, and the bumpy auto-rickshaw ride that I later took to Bodh Gaya. Hopefully, I can find a way to share these photos soon.
Dawn at Bodh Gaya. Home at last.
I'll have to write more about Bodh Gaya later on. Monks were out; People were smiling; Horns were honking.
I'm off now to do a little more exploring before heading back to my room for some evening meditation (unless I find a little temple spot to meditate).My retreat starts tomorrow afternoon at the Thai Monastery (no address, just "The Thai Monastery").
I think I like it here.
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