Staying at Abhayagiri Forest Monastery

Following the tradition of many Thai Buddhist Forest Monks of the past, a small group (mostly westerners) is living and practicing in the hills outside of Ukiah, CA. They call their sanctuary Abhayagiri Monastery. I've known about this place for a couple years now, but seeing how Ukiah isn't the most accessible place to travel to without a car, I had to wait for a ride. Luck had it that a friend, Robert, was going my way. In fact, he was giving a ride to a couple of the head-honcho monks at the monastery (more on that in a bit.)

The schedule is the same everyday at the monastery. Robert said "like Groundhog's Day." Yup. And, it was surprisingly a lot of work. It's not meant to be a retreat center, though... so it's not a like a nap in the park. Other than helping with dishes after every meal, and cleaning the toilet in the morning, I also was asked to do a couple of hours of trail maintenance work in the morning between breakfast and lunch. I got my workout! My back and shoulders were sore for a few days from all the swinging of a pick-axe.

After lunch, personal time begins, and I made use of it to sit in my humble cottage (called "The Bumblebee," and photo shown here) which was right next to a little babbling brook. My meditation practice was incredibly strong and deep, and I can't help but think that it was in part from the powerful energy of this monastery. From the moment I got there, I felt the peace overcome me. And, I had a wild dream on my second night there in which the entire universe exploded into shimmering lights of bliss, and I could see with incredible perspective on the total totalness of existence. It was cool, although I don't want to make too much a big deal out of it. The next day it was back to shoveling and breaking rocks. A flickering moment in time.

The trails (of which I helped work on) run for miles around the hills, which are mostly steep so provide ample exercise. I spent my last day running around taking photos and checking out the nooks and crannies.

They also have a pretty stellar library with a wide selection of Buddhist books and also some poetry, psychology, and even a cool book on old school etiquette.

The etiquette is another important point. When I first heard about Abhayagiri, my friend told me, "they are so careful with their vinaya there, it's impressive." The Vinaya is the monastic code of 227 rules governing all manners of morality and etiquette. I didn't really think that this could be impressive until I saw it! Yes, it is impressive!

It's not that they have really good rules, or that they are really good at keeping people from breaking the rules, or anything like that. In fact, most of the time it doesn't even feel like they are "rules" at all. Rather, it feels like an incredibly conscious community in which the monks take such care in all their actions. And with meticulous care, they cultivate a lifestyle which is incredibly pleasant to be around, peaceful, and joyful. Sure, there were a couple who seemed a little over-the-top with it, kinda like trying to be "good boy scouts." But, for the most part, it didn't seem contrived, forced, or oppressive at all. In fact, it felt freeing, open, and spacious. And, so many smiles too! The monks smile a lot.

The food is all donated (alms food), and it's not entirely vegetarian. The feast was quite large on Friday (the lunar celebration day) and I always made away with some very tasty dishes on my plate. Part of the practice is to only eat for health and not for pleasure, but it's a little counter-productive with all the cookies and dumplings, etc.

I made some good friends while there, and really enjoyed the company. I can see what a magnet this place must be for those who are willing to take the time to seek out such rare sanctuaries like this. I got to hear a couple short Dhamma talks from Ajahn Amaro and Ajahn Sucitto - two highly regarded long-time monks. The Dhamma talks brought me joy.

One reason I went was to see if I might someday want to become a monk. I must say that the trip brought me mixed thoughts on the topic. On one hand, I found the rules and monastic discipline to be more inspiring than what I'd thought. Also, the monk lifestyle seemed beautiful and very tempting. So, in some sense, I'm more interested now than before. While on the other hand, there was some thing about it also which pushed me away (and I'm not sure I can put my finger on it.) One of my friends noted that I'm a little too raw and unrefined for monastic life, and I think that may be it. I'm not a very "traditional" kind of guy, and I'm not a very good "Buddhist" either. But, we'll see. I have no idea what my future holds. I'm starting to think that I like my future like I like my coffee - with nothing in the cup. (I don't like coffee.)

I only stayed at Abhayagiri for three nights, as this was the plan with Robert and his driving schedule, and they limit your first stay to seven days max, anyway. I would like to go back at some point and stay for a longer time, perhaps. But, I'll be sure to be ready for some work!

Bangkok, Babaji, and Bob Dylan

Well, I wasn't going to write anymore before I left, but I'm back in the internet cafe listening to Bob Dylan on youtube.

I guess my beard must be getting LONG because random people around town are calling me Babaji. It's so funny how the tourist crowd of Khao San Road, Thailand is so different from Rishikesh, India. In Rishikesh, I think I was a little bit clean cut for the hippie crowd there. And, now I feel like a weird hippie surrounded with all these college kids and their 75 cent beers.

The Red Shirt protests have apparently settled a little bit after 38 people have died. But, it should be safe to get out of here tomorrow. One thing seems sure (from talking with the locals) no one seems to like fighting. Yet, we humans seem to do it anyway! Oh, what silly monkeys we are.

Here are some Bob Dylan lyrics:

And what'll you do now, my blue-eyed son ?
And what'll you do now my darling young one ?
I'm a-goin' back out 'fore the rain starts a-fallin'
I'll walk to the depths of the deepest black forest
Where the people are a many and their hands are all empty
Where the pellets of poison are flooding their waters
Where the home in the valley meets the damp dirty prison
Where the executioner's face is always well hidden
Where hunger is ugly, where souls are forgotten
Where black is the color, where none is the number
And I'll tell and think it and speak it and breathe it
And reflect it from the mountain so all souls can see it
Then I'll stand on the ocean until I start sinkin'
But I'll know my songs well before I start singin'

- Bob Dylan, Hard Rain

Travel Update: Bangkok Burning!

I'm in Bangkok for two days, and wouldn't you know it, but there is civil unrest in the city! I didn't even know until I saw many of the Thai people glued to the TV watching the most recent developments. Luckily, flights are still coming in and out of the town, although schools and government offices have been closed down today.

Doing a little research, apparently the "Red Shirts" are a political group claiming that the Thai democracy is not a democracy at all, but suffers from interference from the military and the royalty. So, they have shut down the city.

Also, on the Thai news front, I've spoken with a couple of shopkeepers here who say that business has not been good lately - not many tourists! Perhaps it's the global economy, or I suspect perhaps they may have also overdeveloped their Bangkok tourist area. In the seven years since I was last here, they have built up a lot of the Khao San Rd. area.

The guy next to me in the internet cafe is speaking on Skype in Italian - now that's a beautiful language!

So, this is life in Thailand... and so so chill! What a nice relaxing break from India. I've already eaten a young coconut, jackfruit, Pad Thai, and Khao San Banana Pancakes! Yum!

I do want to take a second to share my love of India before I close that chapter. What an insane and adventurous ride that was - sometimes literally - My trip ended with a race to the airport in an auto rickshaw going 50 mph down the highway with no seat-belt, and not even a door between me and the asphalt! India definitely didn't fail to challenge me, and kept me on my toes. I learned new lessons about what is really necessary in terms of comfort in life, and what can be done without. And, I got great joy really appreciating that all of us... Americans, Hindus, Sikhs, Tibetans, Nepali, etc. - we're all cut from the same cloth so to speak. It's one human impulse moving through us all. Be well, India.

Soon, I'll be back in California. If you are a Californian reading this and you want to meet up before my next adventure, let me know, as I really don't know how long I'll be around.

May these people here in Bangkok come to some peace and some progress in service of the Thai people.

Travel Report: Almost There...

I'm in Bangkok, sending a quick message with some time to kill before my flight to Kolkata, India.

I spent about 5 hours laid over in Tokyo airport, and just spent the night here in Thailand. It's fun seeing some long-time-no-see surroundings. I didn't really want to leave Japan.

I was excited to watch some sumo wrestling on TV in Japan.

Once in Thailand, I've enjoyed watching infomercials on thai television for women's slimming cream, and breast enhancement cream. Very informative programs (sarcasm). It kind of makes me wonder what would happen if you used both together? Counterproductive? or do you get some weird slimming-enhancing inversion type scientific breakthrough? It's either that or the 24 hour soccer channel here.

By the way, it's hot here.